Research: Carolina Purcell, intern
Written by: Lourdes N Martínez, EIC
A few weeks ago, the fashion world received a sense of normalcy with the celebration of the Haute Couture shows for Spring Summer 2022. As always, we have a different perspective on the shows and will tell you all that we saw and thought of the collections in this article. So keep reading!
Rahul Mishra played with light and darkness, giving us vibrant catsuits and over-puffy sleeves with a cave-like environment. Details like sequin and embroidery. Each piece that walked the runway gave and ode to adventure and sparked an explorer gene on the attendees that look b y look discovered the beauty and variety of the flora and fauna that can be found inside of the most oscuro caves.
With an art film style, Charles De Vilmorin revealed the Spring Summer 2022 collection that told a tale of a child refusing to go to bed and sewing couture dresses for skeleton instead. As ample as a child imagination, the collection played with silk, feathers, fringe sequins, and pleads that were mixed in hand-painted pieces and bold colors like blue, yellow, red, purple and green.
With a youthful and modern aesthetic, Aelis presented a collection that can be referred as the Haute Couture nirvana. Stepping from darkness to light, models moved around and down the mansion stairs. The collection was a 2022 take on couture, mixing elements like denim and high necks with softer fabrics, knits and more traditional and sexy silhouettes like halter necklines and one-shoulders. Overall the feel of the proposal was a floaty dream that sometimes went to the dark side.
Bringing the 1920’s era to the twenty first century, Ulyana Sergeenko transformed popular designs of that era to fit the woman of today. Also, Paris and its glamour, and nostalgia were captured in every detail of the presentation, from the music to the symbolisms. The proposal featured crystal, mesh and sequins mixed that gave glam to suits, corsets, slit dresses and lingerie-like clothing. What elevated each look? The head caps in crystals or flowers.
Azzaro presented a wearable and effortless take on haute couture for Spring Summer 2022. The collection for both men and women was filmed at a Rooftop with an abandoned hydroponic garden. In between the hydroponic pots, suits and gowns filled with sequin and metallic hues walked down the premeditated runway. Pants were baggy, low rise and boxy, more of an early 2000’s aesthetic. Dresses were semi-minimal but ultra sexy with cutouts and low cut backs.
Georges Hobeika open the door to and intense and playful haute couture world. The feminine collection was soft in design and circled around butterflies and the freedom and softness of a first kiss. Indeed, it was a high glamour proposal in pastel shades that played with laser cut and embroidery in butterfly shades, deep cleavages, halter necklines, metallic fringe, beaded mesh and feathers.
Stephane Rolland created a sophisticated monochromatic collection that played with oversize looks paired with oversize jewelry and accessories. The color palette stayed between whites and beiges, black, grey, green and gold. The spin, we saw hoods, wide pants, capes, tunics and the return of the bubble skirt.
Julien Fournié gave us a video game themed – 70’s inspired collection for Spring 2022. On the character selection of the game, we identified different avatars in each look that gave a different persona to the character. Some in Jumpsuits, other in asymmetrical cuts, some in mermaid or body con silhouettes and others in corset and ballgowns. It showed that life is like a video game and every character can find its look in this proposal. The constantly changing background gave the show the feeling of action and movement.
As if spring had sprung in all its splendor, Elie Saab, a favorite among many, offered a fresh bouquet of fresh spring flower-gowns blooming at the runway. The sensual yet feminine collection featured thigh High slits and cut outs; one shoulder and halter necklines, mermaid bottoms and trains. All adorned with fringe, feathers, flowers and metallic details. The finale look took everyone’s breath away with its out-of-this-world dreamy bridal gown and veil.
Zuahir Murad created the couture pirate with the world map at her feet. This collection gave a modern and sophisticated spin on the 18th century pirate and women’s wardrobe. In this fantasy land the pirate is free to take over the world in off the shoulder, one shoulder or deep necklines mixed with sequins, gold chain fringe and flowy fabrics in black, red, gold, silver, pink, orange, blue and grays. The showstopper? The map embroidered dress.
“Surreal shoulders” was the title Viktor & Rolf gave to their Spring Summer 2022 collection. As the title mentions, the proposal intrigued everyone by the elevated shoulders on almos every piece that walked the runway. The darkness of the concept was toned down by hues in light blue, gray, white, pink and yellow. We continued to see one shoulder cuts, mermaid bottoms, shirts and the peasant dress. In one phrase: spring vampire couture.
Models walked the runway below deconstructed archways of Corinthia at Fendi couture show for Spring Sumer 2022. Traditional technique and modern craftsmanship united to create this elegant and greek-inspired collection that could not miss the one shoulder and dropped kaftan-like gowns reminiscent of the era. Beaded appliqués, heat molded leather were some of the distinctive traits of the proposal that stayed in the navy and royal blue, reds, black, white and gray palette. But by far, the hand painted greek statues were the real show stoppers.
Yanina Couture told with her collection a tale of joy, harmony, lust for life and a vital desire to color up the world. That could be felt in every look that walked down the runway. Rainbow gowns, asymmetric pieces, capes, gemstone bras and tunics where among the distinctive pieces created with beads, feathers and exaggerated puffy sleeves. It mixed the flowyness of the 70’s and the boldness of 2022. Described another way: a dreamy psychedelic pastel trip.
Sequin extravaganza is a good description for Alexandre Vautier haute couture collection. The festive but wearable presentation can be also described as high street fashion. Dozens of feet of sequin and beaded fabric where selected to create peplum suits, capes, trumpet skirts, slouchy dress pants and many other pieces that wow the audience. Velvet, organza and faux fur where also thrown in the mix to give the proposal an extra edge.
Inspired in both the eco-friendly fashion and traditional African roots, Imane Ayissi presented the Spring Summer 2022 collection in an atmosphere that focused on the looks walking down the hallway runway. Making a big statement with the first piece with the message “No fashion on a dead Planet”, the brand selected rich fabrics in bold colors like brown, black, mustard yellow, fucsia, red, and green and purple. As featured pieces we saw on shoulder tops, trousers and jackets.