Written by June Bobé, intern
Rakuten hosted once again Tokyo Fashion Week for Autumn Winter 2022. Shibuya Hikarie and Omotesando Hills were among the venues that received the 54 collections presented this season. Here are a few of them:
9M
At the beginning of this presentation, it was shown that most of these pieces are printed with ink. A very popular technique that many fast fashion companies use to make various clothing pieces. The background was completely white just to center of the pieces. Abnormal luxury uniform pattern was the vibe given. The silhouettes were very open and baggy paired with a very modern styling. Textiles were printed with the fabricated print sheet they’ve shown. Most of the colors are neutral like beige, white and brown but there’s also greens and dark blue.
Yoke
As the presentation begins you can hear a recording opening the show. Following, you could see the scenery that was closely similar to an art gallery. It’s a clash of white and black background. Most of the art on the walls were paintings made by Barnett Newman from the 1930’s. A solid voice explained the collection and inspiration while models walked slowly as if they were in an art gallery admiring paintings.
I find it very amusing how they presented their collection as an organic way of walking and interacting with their surroundings. Additionally, as the recording briefly explains that this presentation is a collaboration with various artist. The idea of this collaboration is to enjoy the world view due to the recent event of covid 19.
Colors were mostly blacks and grays but they also had browns, yellow and greens. We could also see quilted and knitted textiles paired with leather. This presentation made me feel that I’m was also in an art gallery. The silhouettes of this collection were very open and baggy. The style of this collection is very modern.
Maison Shun Ishizawa
As a first impression the collection gave us bad boy streetwear with some elements of old school street punk. The way they’re showing of their collection is by acting and walking around like punks which gives of more of that vibe. They are following their brand profile which is to pursuit a sophisticated martial arts style. It adds a masculine ruggedness but with small touches of elegance. It is great that they have been walking in an urban environment.
The colors were dark tones of black, blues and some greens but they also added red as the pop of color. We could also spot jeans and printed imagery and patterns. The silhouettes are very baggy and open that gives off that masculine figure. It gives much of a 90’s street punk style.
HOUGA
HOUGA gave us a very feminine and delicate touch. On a white room with many draped curtains and a single chair and mirror, the brand showed pieces full of pleats and subtle ruffles in beige, cream, dusty blue and pinks, contrasting with black and burgundy. The textiles were regal and elegant. It gave an elegant modern look with a small victorian twist.
NON TOKYO
In the background we could see a like a glass casing holding up the models. As on by one started to leave the background, they all formed a line like if they’re actual mannequins. Very open and flowy silhouettes with lots of gathers and layers. For the color scheme they had oranges, red, magenta, blues, yellows, green, pink, white and black. Textiles were transparent or solid; some with prints or quilted. It gives a modern contrast that provoques discomfort.
SHINYAKOZUKA
It begins with a simple staging with lighting as a distraction. Each models had their hair styled to the front giving individuality to this collection. Open and baggy silhouettes with layes passed the runway in white, black, beige, brown, yellow, orange, red, gray and gold. It’s a modern street fashion collection.
HARUNOBUMURATA
The runway was set in a circular shape and the models walked around the audience. The vibe is giving me is a very much modern minimalistic style. The silhouettes were fitted, flowy and open with italian cuts in black, white, brown and blues. What captured my eyes were the way they’ve cut these pieces and made it hooded.
TOMO KOIZUMI
A red carpet was placed for the models to walk on. An exaggerating glamour with gathers on a bush like form. The silhouettes were fitted with flares in shades of green, yellow, pink, orange, blue, magenta, purple and black. It’s giving me a modern proposal to 90’s glamour and color pop.
SEVESKIG
With a plane white background to show off the collection, Seveskig presented a simplistic proposal reminiscent of bees for the incorporation of brown, yellow and white with hints of green. Comfortable fits with Christmas ugly sweaters and tiger like patterns inspired on the late 90s to early 2000s.
UFC
An industrial labor environment set the dull and neutral mood. Black and white looks walked the runway with some weaved pieces to alude the upcoming season. This collection is representative of the modern era.
OXYMORON
The local train station showcasing white, black gray and light brown pieces in comfortable and baggy fits giving more options to the modern street fashion style.
IRENISA
An open field with a red carpet made the perfect scenario for Irenisa autumn winter show. Models were holding a red accessory in their hands as a signature look. It gave me an elegant yet nostalgic feeling. Open fitted patterns with a masculine lookin brown, white, blue, green, hints of reds and black composed the proposal. It’s a modern-day tailored style.
Seivson
For a start we could see that in the presentation everything is dark but as soon as a model enters the runway the way lights up. The silhouettes of these collection was build up layers; very wide and baggy with some body con pieces. White, creme, light blue, black and green. A very eccentric and wild mood arose from the runway in a futuristic way.
PEIEN
Models standing and twirling to show off the pieces. The feeling of this presentation was very eerie and non-traditional. Peien gave us a collection in woven, lace, transparencies and prints in white, gray, black, green, blue and red. This is a very modern and futuristic look.
HIROKO KOSHINO
A back wall in a keyhole shape was a frame for the twirling models that delicately danced and walked . The mood was very serene and calm and amusing by the chosen color palette in red, orange, gold, green, blue, beige, gray and black. Just a modern elegant look for now a days.
